“…GOAT Christmas soundtrack…”

A longtime reader recently emailed me asking for advice on an ensemble for an upcoming holiday get-together of close friends of which he was graciously hosting. He wanted something fun and engaging, yet classy and upscale. Somewhere less than full-out-GTH but above boring and stiffy to add cadence to a relaxed and upbeat atmosphere. Something to honor Vince Guaraldi’s angelic record chiming off the Audubon china and champagne glasses, half filled with sparkly and the city’s bright skyline in the distance, guarding the evening’s secrets.

It just so happens he caught me on a brainstorming session (during a class lecture, naturally) a week out for an outfit I wanted to wear for Thanksgiving and an upcoming Christmas Gala & Fundraiser Social I was attending at the end of November. Something elegant but whimsical for the season, we both asked ourselves? Easy answer: Buy some Blackwatch Pants now damnit!

We borrow everything from the fogeys across the pond. The tartan pattern calls home to The Black Watch, 3rd Battalion of the Royal Regiment of Scotland. But much like repp ties, the 99.997% of us who overlook the bestowed honor by swearing to King and Country that comes with privileged right to wear these patterns, have donated such magnificent styles for the Ralph Lauren F/W Catalog and our fordable use.

You know I am all for blown out of proportion preppy at any given moment, and there is certainly no problem with extremely GTH-ish four panel and critter pants, and can just as easily be worn for the same occasions you’d wear Blackwatch, but the latter tends to carry a sense of calmly splendor that answers to the call that critter pants contrastingly screams bluntly in reply. So save the vociferous (add to the GRE word list) “Santa and Reindeer” motif critters for your fraternity’s ugly Xmas sweater party and break out the Blackwatch for the formal holiday affairs.

What I end up wearing for the semi-formal Christmas Gala. If it were black tie (such a rarity these days ) then I’d propose that you can even don the Blackwatch with your tuxedo, although I think a shawl collar over a peaked lapel would compliment the best. Only for Winter seasonal affairs of course.

Worn with my trusty (and presently, only) Brooks Brothers traveler’s overcoat and Ralph Lauren lambswool white scarf. You’ll notice other recurring themes of the black alligator embossed strap and engine-turned Trafalgar plaque, black Allen Edmonds Grayson tassel loafers, and my Bucherer dress watch with black calfskin band. I stayed true with the namesake and went triple black for these inspirations. Probably one of the rare tradly cases where the black pairings just seems right, especially for after 6pm.

Blackwatch can add a touch to casual wear too by anchoring the lightly felt stark difference. Earlier that evening for dinner, I wore the standard repp bowtie and blue blazer, but for a Thanksgiving party later that night to wash down the turkey and gravy with vine, I decided to pull on a V and unbuttoned twice.

Maybe for Christmas morning? Or lounging around listening to Sinatra and Bublé? Throw in my favorite creme cable-knit shawl cardigan and wool plaid tie.

I keep the assertive cap-toe for suits and the like. So to diffuse the deep black despair, I like the tassel loafer as it adds flair to the otherwise funeral-safe margins. And if you’re keeping count, yes these are my second pair of Graysons, after the merlot. Excessive? I don’t think so for such a versatile shoe model. Plus, my first pair was only $60 used on eBay. These? $25 shipped Rule #10 folks! Even had my cobbler confirm the soles were barely worn.

There are other Scottish tartan variants other than Blackwatch. Royal Stewart is a popular one for extra Christmassyy spirit. Playing around with the red and yellow accents of these pants with the red V and gold buttons. So where to buy for this 2013 season? Here is a list of what I’ve come up with. The two featured in my personal collection above are Ralph Lauren, but unfortunately only offered in outlets. More downside is that they’re…*shudders*….Lauren by Ralph Lauren. But at least 100% wool and in a perfectly trim cut. Purchased for ~$40 from $100 from already on sale on top of Black Friday and student discount.

Orvis for $150. I like that these are 100% wool and can customize hemming and cuff options. I prefer mine uncuffed myself.

JCrew Factory in Bedford for currently $60 in limited sizes. I was originally deadset on these for my previously limited window of time and budget, but the Laurens sneaked up on me. Wool/poly makes them a bit shiny but not necessarily a deal breaker.

JCrew PapaBear in Bowery for $158. Ludlow Harris Tweed for $350.

Castaway for $155. Unhemmed for optimal tailoring. Unknown if all wool.

Brooks Brothers Madison and Milano for $248. These are a deco variant of true Blackwatch. 100% wool. More affordable at $98, Red Fleece. Cotton and variant.

Paul Frederick at a comfortable a discounted $79, sadly pleated. 100% wool and unhemmed.

Banana Republic Aiden Chino for $59. Cotton blend.

Club Monaco Davis Chino for $89. Confirmed with brand representative that the color is not traditional Blackwatch with dark green, and has more of a grey hue. Also, a decent selection of other plaids.

Ralph Lauren Custom Fit Trouser for $495. 100% virgin wool, made in Italy. Sell your extra kidney, you don’t need it.

Heritage of Scotland kilt. Only if you’re of a Clan. And in a cultural fair or a parade. Actually, just don’t.

Bonobos has carried traditional Blackwatch before but not this year. They do offer a performance version for golf in nasty polyester for $118. We’ll check back next year. They do have some cool limited edition panel pants though.

I’ve seen Blackwatch full suits before (JCrew offers one for example) but I’m not so sure if it can be worn in a totally serious way, or at least you’ll have to be able to carry an ironic chip on your shoulder in your sartorial IQ. Blackwatch and the like is best worn mix-n-match IMHO. O’Connells offers a Made in USA dinner jacket from H Freeman. Other than that, not many other American made sources that I’ve seen. Those Ralph Italian slacks are the gold standard out of the bunch, but I like my second kidney thanksverymuch, and am perfectly happy with the bastard stepchild Lauren.

So next time you’re hosting a holiday dinner party, or attending an evening formal, or if it’s just that time of year, then Blackwatch is a safe bet if you’re wanting to dance the line. Let the critters frolic and play at another occasion. Hopefully I made the gentleman at Acute Style proud.

Almost three years ago, I wrote my first style advice article for a budding personal blog where I can share my sartorial knowledge on anything tradly and preppy. I hope my enduring compass has steered you into the right course, navigating the turbulent seas of passing fads and sailing on to timeless waters. And in that spirit, I’ll revisit that inaugural article now with another proposition for your shoe game.

I don’t stray too far from the genesis. Leave it to Grandpa Bean for giving us some of the most fundamental of preppy footwear. The Blucher Moccasin from the past article that has been keeping toes warm since 1936. The Bean Boot (“Duck Boot”) that has kept trudging through the field easy since 1912. And lastly, the Blucher’s sister, also introduced in 1936: the Camp Moccasin.

On first glance, these Native American inspired loafers look much like a Boat Shoe. Both have 360 degree lacing and a low profile. However, boat shoes have a “siped” sole made for wet surfaces that act like a car tire (water is allowed to seep in the tread in order to keep the shoe in contact with the slippery surface) as well as a blucher construction, which are those two “flaps” at both sides of the top plug that are pulled together by the lacing for better fit.

Camp mocs on the other hand are more of a traditional loafer with lace threading through the top plug. As such, a tighter fit may be best since there isn’t much leeway for lace adjusting. Camp mocs also have the camp sole made for dry, loose surface (namesake via camp grounds) allowed by the large indentation at the bottom. These may also be seen on blucher mocs.

The Blucher and Camp Mocs came back into style shortly after Boat Shoes became cool again, with the camp mocs seen on the runways in full force in the past two years. Christian from Ivy Style proclaimed last Fall as the “Season of the Camp Moc” and was highlighted by GQ too. Not that I’m late to the party or anything, it’s just that I hadn’t gotten a pair to review until now!

The Rancourt Company Gilman is the best value for an American made, chromexcel leather Camp Moc at only (only, huh?) $227. Quoddy calls theirs the Canoe Shoe and starts at $245 but has more color variations. Oak Street Bootmakers clocks in at $262 regularly priced. Of course, there is no shame in going with the original LLBean but much like the Blucher Moc, it leaves the owner wanting with cheap construction and foreign sourced materials. Still, not terrible for a budget at $79 or lower when on sale.

I went with Rancourt’s camp moc and I could not be any happier. The steady price convinced me it was worth it if the shoe lasts me for the next few decades, as it should. The shoes can be re-soled. The rich horween aroma is delicious, and the leather is extremely supple that requires no breaking in. I like the look of the classic brown with the tan leather laces and they should age and develop a patina gracefully compared to other colors. Plus, if you already have the blucher moc in tan saddle, and boat shoes in classic Authentic Original brown as I do, then a shade in between offers more variety.

As was the purpose of my recommending the blucher from the first article, it’s nice to break away from the monotony of fratty Sperries you’ll see everywhere on campus. Some guys practically live in them. It’s always funny seeing the young bloods in blue blazer, chinos, and broken-in boat shoes they’ve had since high school that are better replaced by a hard sole for those dressier occasions. The low tongue makes camp mocs look as casualfied preppy as boat shoes, but can be worn year round whereas the boat shoe is more of a warm weather rotation. I do like keeping to the camp shoe’s tradition and plan on keeping it a predominantly cold weather shoe, as I love the way it breaks with cuffed chinos (compared to the Blucher’s mid height). Although I can certainly put my Sperries on vacation from time to time. So if you are scheduling your casual loafer collection, it’ll go something like this: Boat shoes in the warm months. Bluchers in the cold. Camp mocs in the Fall and Winter with summer appearances (worn barefoot, naturally). Bonus question: Bean Boots? Mid and high profile in the cold, preferably with crisp snow on the ground. Bean Boot Mocs all year but worn barefoot in the Spring and Summer rains.

I look forward to the impending frigid temperatures with a Barbour, tartan OCBD, shetland sweater, corduroy pants, thick fair isle socks and my new mocs. Hope it makes Grandpa Bean proud.

Look at all of that Made in USA goodness…