It’s arrived. Another newcomer to the forward fashion group think of runway preppy youth. Debuting the Ovadia designed collection at the Manhattan Yale Club (as such, Mr. Press is synonymous with the university), York Street opened it’s doors with a new home front on Bleeker Street this past February. You already know my sentiments in a diatribe about the topic, so I’ll just summarize the main points: too tight, too expensive, too costumey for the average college student. And so it goes.
York Street’s launching Spring collection looks right at home in a spread in fashion magazines. Collaborating the old with the new, upgrading yesteryear’s style for today’s generation…yadadada.
I said the same thing with the soon-to-be-defunct Ralph Lauren Rugby and new king-of-the-preppy-hill Brooks Brothers Flatiron. What’s with all the obviously fake athletic patches? Why do you advertise extremely obnoxious clothing pairings in your look books (such as sweatpants with a tie), as if your dorm mates who actually cared just a little about how they dressed wanted to look moronically disheveled.
But despite questionable fashions, the sensible side of me reasons no true blame for a company wanting to change it’s direction. J. Press wants to stay relevant in the fashion world and ultimately make a profit. There just aren’t enough people anymore who jack off to brushed shetland wool and blue blazers like I do. Maybe for some people, they’d be willing to pay $85 for at shirt that was inspired by bandana head gear.
I just dunno. Sure, I could ramble about how J. Press punishes itself by abandoning its novelty, which made the 111-year old pillar of traditional American style so special and coveted by the true believers. However at the end of the day, we have to accept that Mr. Press has joined the rest of them, sacrificing a little part of it’s spirit in my Holy Trinity of GMP (reference this giddy brainfart from my Barbour Article).
How about a positive critique? At least York Street opted to hedge in another path not taken by it’s competitors. Instead of basing a whole brand image on “You didn’t go to Harvard but you can dress like you did” allusions to the Ivy League, they went for a brighter, more tactile approach. Clean cut and visually popping, York Street’s Spring Collection reminds me of the early days of 1970s prep.
Sure, it’s expensive. And yes I don’t see myself actually buying anything from York Street that I can’t just save my precious dollars for daddy Jacobi. Notwithstanding my pessimist view of the new wave of urban prep stores, a part of me does wish them all luck. Because if it brings in the rest of our friends into the world of American traditional fashion, no matter how untraditional it actually is. It’s a step away from the baggy carpenter faded jeans and into the nicely fitting crisp cuffed chinos.
A peak at York Street’s Fall Collection.
I need to get 4-Block pants one day soon.
Something actually wearable. A little too slim and short for my tastes, but a smart look overall.
Another clean look. Just not sure how you’d drape a sweater over a suit without being that guy outside a fashion shoot.
The quilt coat is a more fashionable alternate to a Barbour Liddy. Just do us a favor and tuck in the shirt. The key to pulling off a tie with jeans is to bring in the 2 polar opposites of the formality spectrum. If you mess it up with sloppiness than you look like you put everything seconds after getting up from bed not on purpose.
More 4 Block pants in a subdued wool pattern. The trench is too petite unfortunately. I’m all for overcoats not dragging at your feet, this isn’t 1988. But I’d save the ultra short cuts for your girlfriend.
An example of how I’m on the fence for high-fashion. I like the denim with sockless loafers. Maybe even the “fun” sport coat…maybe. But I just don’t think I can see myself actually wearing this. Unless I’m dining with Michael Bastian himself at that French Restaurant in Tribeca.
3:17am, Wolfclaw Lodge, Location: Bedroom